The boat from Krabi dropped us at Rai Leh beach, a gorgeous stretch of fine white sand bordered by picture postcard palm trees and cliffs. Very nice, you think at first, until it dawns that the place is actually devoid of charm, soul or indeed anything that would suggest it's sitting in the middle of southeast Asia - scenery aside, obviously.
Three or four exclusive nobby resorts dominate proceedings, and unless you've the wallet of an Oil Baron, you'd better get out of town.
So we did.
We took another boat around the headland to the altogether cooler HatTon Sai, a magical place that in terms of scenery is the equal of its neighbour, but which has accommodation starting at two and a half quid a night.
Quiet and peaceful throughout the day, it becomes something far funkier after dark, with a string of ramshackle beach bars pumping out the finest music we've heard anywhere since leaving home.
Significantly, all the business's appear to be Thai owned and managed too. The food is deliciously authentic, the beer's cheap and the people - visitors and locals alike - are extremely easy going.
We love it. We're staying for a week.
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