Day 19. Rakaia Gorge. Puffed up eye, versatile underpants.

Woke up this morning looking like I'd gone the distance with Mike Tyson. Despite the sub-zero temperatures and the fact that we were at altitude, New Zealand's number 1 annoying mosquito had found his way into the van and bitten me on the eyelid whie I was kipping.

Once over the trauma, we enjoyed a full day's hike up the Gorge and back. This is a lovely area, yet doesn't seem to be in any of our guide books. The upside to that, of course, is there's no bugger around and you pretty much have the countryside to yourself.

The Gorge has been created by the Rakaia river as it leaves the Southern Alps and fans out across the Canterbury plains. Recent rains meant it was in flood, which is bad news for the local anglers, but great news for a couple of Brit backpackers who want to see it at it's powerful best.

Although we're loving the van, Wend has been a little uncomfortable with the fact that she why she gets a 50mph wind up her gusset every time I put my foot down. The reason, it turns out, is that some inconsiderate oaf has managed to smash a hole the size of a fag packet under the dashboard.

So I donned some shining armour, took off my underpants, and stuffed said garment into the aperture. The pants are past their prime, so I'll be leaving them in place when we hand the van back. Maybe some down-at-heel mechanic will give them a new lease of life?

Loving this campsite so much, we've signed up for another night's stay.